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The Mae Hong Son Province | Pai
Situated in the far northern Thailand, Pai is definitely one of the country’s most beautiful destinations to visit! It’s becoming increasingly popular year on year as more and more backpackers are willing to brave the long windy road up there. Steeped in natural beauty, glorious mountains and even a waterpark it’s a destination you really can’t afford to miss on your trip through Thailand!
How to get there
It’s worth being aware that there is only one road in and out of Pai and it is a little long … and windy …. Okay, it’s incredibly long and windy! It's definitely one of the more sickening journeys to take in Thailand, but trust me it’s worth it! The route winds ever higher and higher through the gorgeous mountains and you have some really great views along the way. They’ve also widened and improved the quality of the road in recent years so it’s definitely getting better. That being said, buses do still seem to race their way up there (even trying to overtake on dodgy bends) so just be aware that you may want to take some motion sickness tablets if, like us, you struggle with journies like this. Now that’s been said, here are your two main ways of getting to Pai:
Most people (like us) get a minibus to Pai from Chiang Mai. There are no big coaches that head there, it’s literally a minibus company that leaves every hour. You travel with a company called Prem Pracha and you can purchase your ticket either online or at the bus depo Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Station. The trip takes around 3 hours. This route literally goes in and out of the mountains ....so it’s very twisty/turny and the chances are you will feel really sick (we did)! They stop half way through for a toilet/coffee break and you will need to grab the fresh air. Your other option is to get a “local” bus that takes around 4 hours- It’s around 75 baht and you can buy your tickets at the Arcade Bus Station too.
Getting to Pai from Chiang Mai by Moped or Motorbike
I really wish that this was the option that we chose as we love riding mopeds in southeast Asia, and I’m sure the journey would have been a lot more enjoyable. Your best option would probably be to find a hostel or hotel in Chiang Mai that is willing to hang on to the bulk of your luggage for a few days while you head up to Pai. Then, go and speak to local moped/scooter rental firms and check they are happy for you to ride up to Pai. It’s best to pack light for the trip as you really won’t need very much stuff, and it will make the drive there more enjoyable if you’re carrying less luggage.
Getting around in Pai
Simply put, mopeds are your best shout! This is the thing that most people do in Pai, and you’ll soon realise why when you see the hundreds of signs offering moped rental for as little as 100 baht for 24 hours! One thing to note, that the cheaper the moped, the lower quality. Whilst this is fine if you are just driving around to local places, if you want to venture to some of the more far out places that I will speak about below, including hot springs and waterfalls, the roads include steep hills which a low cc moped, just will not bring you up! So it’s always best to fork out the extra few Baht to get a decent quality moped (treat yourself, you’re on holiday after all!)
Where to stay in Pai
Pai is literally filled with wonderful places to stay, that’s what makes it such a great place to visit. Especially compared to busier cities like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. One important thing to note when booking your accommodation is that taxi services are limited. Well, not limited, but it’s basically a set fair of 100 baht and you book a taxi from the main street, so it’s just awkward. Most accommodations are within walking distance, so keep this in mind when booking. Ours was a 15-20 minute walk with bags which wasn’t exactly ideal. We stayed in a place called Pai Phu Fah Resort and we stayed here for two nights. This is right in the middle of the Pai countryside, away from the centre and you are housed in little wooden huts/bungalows. The views that surround you are amazing and you can see green rice paddies and one of the big Buddhas in the distance.
The Pai Walking Street Food Market
I have to include this because it’s probably the best street food market I have been to in Thailand! It’s cheap and the variety is crazy. Pai also loves its avocado, so it is truly an avocado lover's dream. There are dishes to suit everyone, from meat lovers (bbq ribs to die for), vegetarians (fried mushroom and sweet fritters- delicious!) and vegans. The only problem will be choosing what to eat; either way I recommend you eat the street food each night. We didn’t get sick and everything is visibly clean and well prepared; which is surprising as we got sick in a few places in the south of Thailand. This street food market is located in the centre of Pai, though the town is tiny anyway, so it’s hard to miss. You’ll walk past lots of food establishments then you’ll enter the food market- yum! Stalls start setting up at around 5:00 pm, so I recommend heading in at about 6:00 pm.
Explore Pai Canyon
Known as Thailand’s answer to the Grand Canyon (a very ambitious claim), Pai Canyon covers a large area that offers some brilliant views and fun hikes. If you are feeling very active you can scramble all the way down and spend hours climbing and getting lost in nature. It’s a bit of an adventurer’s playground too because some of the paths are quite skinny and sketchy, so make sure you wear good shoes if you are planning on exploring Pai Canyon properly. A favourite pastime is enjoying the sunset with a beer in hand, watching the sky change to an astonishing array of colours. You won’t be alone for sunset, but that just adds to the awesome atmosphere! Get there to Pai Canyon by riding your scooter out of town back towards Chiang Mai.
Walking Street Night Market
Every night the main street of Pai fills up with street food vendors and market stalls selling everything from your quintessential hippie clothing and jewelry to personalized postcards. Even if you’re not into shopping though, you still need to spend just about every night making the most of Pai’s Walking Street, especially if you’re hungry. The selection of street food is quite varied; sushi, Indian food, barbecued meats, fresh fruit smoothies, and deep-fried everything. You certainly won’t go hungry! Everyone ends up at the night market most nights so the people-watching is great. Just watch out for first-time scooter riders who have no concept of how to drive. Entertaining, but dangerous!
Pam Bok Waterfall
Pai has a number of awesome waterfalls to visit, which is perfect because the area can get pretty hot during the day! What better way to cool off than visiting the two best ones! One of our personal favourites is the Pam Bok Waterfall, located a short scooter ride from Pai. It’s a little more secluded than its more popular alternative (more on that below), so definitely don’t miss it. Pam Bok Waterfall is tucked away beneath some high cliffs, so it is often covered in shade for most of the day. As a result, the water is quite refreshing, but that means you could have the pool to yourself. There are also a couple of ledges you can climb to jump off. Be sure to check the water depth before taking the leap! Safety first kids. Situated on the road to the Pam Bok Waterfall, the famous Pai Land Split is definitely worth a stopover.
Land Crack
A small property hidden in the hills had always been a working farm until a strange natural phenomenon changed everything. Several years ago, the farmer’s land began to split and crack due to some strange soil erosion. His property became unusable as the land turned into a scene you would see after an earthquake. The thrifty farmer then decided to turn his property and land split into a bit of a tourist attraction where he now offers you nuts, fruit, sweet potato, fresh rosella juice, and alcohol – all by donation! Once you’ve filled up on food (he constantly brings you more to eat), you can walk up the hill to have a look at the Land Split. The family is very friendly and is just happy to have people stopping by. Definitely one of the most unique things to do in Pai.
Mo Paeng Waterfall
The other most popular falls to visit in Pai is the Mo Paeng Waterfall, and this is our personal favourite. At Mo Paeng Waterfalls there are great little pools with long, slippery rock faces running into them that you can slide down. The scenery is gorgeous and it makes for a fun place to spend a few hours. Our recommendation for what to do in Pai is to rent a scooter from town and spend exploring these epic little spots on your own.
Splash around at Waterpark Adventure
Okay, this was probably one of my absolute favourite things to do in Pai; mainly because we drove past it randomly and thought “what’s that?”. It’s not a waterpark in your traditional sense...rather it’s a massive swimming pool filled with massive inflatable courses to try and tackle and a big massive “bouncy” water slide to climb on top and slide down. We were intrigued, so we pulled over to find a price. We put our bags in some random lockers (that had no locks) and headed towards what looked like a bar. I can’t remember the exact price...but I’m pretty sure it was around 150 THB. It was amazingly fun and so cheap, they even had super clean showers and toilets to clean yourself afterwards. There is so little information about this place online….they don’t even rank for their own business name, and you should use Maps.me or Google Maps to bring you there.It did advertise “pool” parties, with shots, drinks, DJs, the whole shebang and I reckon they would be quite fun, but I think they are only for a certain season. I really hope this place stays open because if you have the chance to go, you will love it!
Tha Pai Hot Springs
For a relaxing afternoon when you visit Pai, head to the Tha Pai Hot Springs. Only 7km from town, a cold-water stream flows over boiling-hot rocks to create a soothing, heated pool surrounded by lush scenery. Tha Pai Hot Springs are the perfect way to kill a few hours in the winter months when temperatures in Pai can plummet. You’ll find lots of other backpackers hanging out and having a good time at the hot springs, so there’s a good chance you’ll make some friends there too. This is one place we didn’t visit due to the fact we were there in summer and the weather was already roasting. But if you are there in the cooler months, don’t miss these amazing hot springs! Sai Ngam Hot Springs are another amazing option. While Tha Pai Hot Springs are south of the town center, Sai Ngam Hot Springs are a 25 minute drive north. Both are easily accessible from Pai and make for an incredible, relaxing day.
Venture up to White Buddha
Wat Phra That Mae Yen, also known as the White Buddha, is one of the top things to see when you visit Pai. You can see it from most places in town, and the White Buddha high on the hill isn’t only a religious shrine, it also offers some of the best views over Pai! Once you cross the bridge heading out of town keep following the road until you are about 2km out of town, and you’ll see the path to the top. There are 353 steps to reach the White Buddha, and while it might be tiring, the vistas from the top are always worth it. Time your trip to be at the top for sunset and you’ll quickly fall in love with the entire valley changing colours right before your eyes. Make sure you take water with you, and even though the temperature can be hot keep in mind that you still need to show respect to Buddha by covering up. It’s difficult deciding what to see in Pai, but the Wat Phra That Mae Yen is a Pai must-see!
Tubing Down the Pai River
The Pai River hosts the best Pai activities – tubing! If you’ve never been tubing before then you’re in for a real treat. Basically all it requires is one big inflatable tube, your bathers, and a sense of adventure. You head upriver with a bunch of friends and push yourself out into the water. Then you kick back and let the current take you back to town. The entire experience will take about an hour. This is definitely one of the best things to do in Pai Thailand, especially on a hot day. Rent a tube from one of the tour companies in town for less than $10, including transport to and from the river.
Though there are so many great Pai attractions to visit, I can confidently say that some of my favorite memories from here were our time spent out on the moped. Compared to elsewhere in Thailand, Pai seems so much less crowded, so as soon as you head out of town the roads are virtually empty. Plus, the scenery is spectacular, with lush green fields and rice paddies almost everywhere. The roads are also in pretty good shape, at least by Asian standards, so the roads are nice and smooth and you aren’t as worried about suddenly hitting a massive pothole! There are a bunch of places in town that rent out mopeds, charging anywhere from 100 THB per day and upwards. You can usually get a better price if you’re willing to hire for multiple days; and we often find that your hotel/hostel offers the best rates. That being said, before you head out make sure that the bike is in good condition and that they give you helmets for everyone riding.
Situated in the far northern Thailand, Pai is definitely one of the country’s most beautiful destinations to visit! It’s becoming increasingly popular year on year as more and more backpackers are willing to brave the long windy road up there. Steeped in natural beauty, glorious mountains and even a waterpark it’s a destination you really can’t afford to miss on your trip through Thailand!
How to get there
It’s worth being aware that there is only one road in and out of Pai and it is a little long … and windy …. Okay, it’s incredibly long and windy! It's definitely one of the more sickening journeys to take in Thailand, but trust me it’s worth it! The route winds ever higher and higher through the gorgeous mountains and you have some really great views along the way. They’ve also widened and improved the quality of the road in recent years so it’s definitely getting better. That being said, buses do still seem to race their way up there (even trying to overtake on dodgy bends) so just be aware that you may want to take some motion sickness tablets if, like us, you struggle with journies like this. Now that’s been said, here are your two main ways of getting to Pai:
- Via Minibus
- Via Moped
Most people (like us) get a minibus to Pai from Chiang Mai. There are no big coaches that head there, it’s literally a minibus company that leaves every hour. You travel with a company called Prem Pracha and you can purchase your ticket either online or at the bus depo Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Station. The trip takes around 3 hours. This route literally goes in and out of the mountains ....so it’s very twisty/turny and the chances are you will feel really sick (we did)! They stop half way through for a toilet/coffee break and you will need to grab the fresh air. Your other option is to get a “local” bus that takes around 4 hours- It’s around 75 baht and you can buy your tickets at the Arcade Bus Station too.
Getting to Pai from Chiang Mai by Moped or Motorbike
I really wish that this was the option that we chose as we love riding mopeds in southeast Asia, and I’m sure the journey would have been a lot more enjoyable. Your best option would probably be to find a hostel or hotel in Chiang Mai that is willing to hang on to the bulk of your luggage for a few days while you head up to Pai. Then, go and speak to local moped/scooter rental firms and check they are happy for you to ride up to Pai. It’s best to pack light for the trip as you really won’t need very much stuff, and it will make the drive there more enjoyable if you’re carrying less luggage.
Getting around in Pai
Simply put, mopeds are your best shout! This is the thing that most people do in Pai, and you’ll soon realise why when you see the hundreds of signs offering moped rental for as little as 100 baht for 24 hours! One thing to note, that the cheaper the moped, the lower quality. Whilst this is fine if you are just driving around to local places, if you want to venture to some of the more far out places that I will speak about below, including hot springs and waterfalls, the roads include steep hills which a low cc moped, just will not bring you up! So it’s always best to fork out the extra few Baht to get a decent quality moped (treat yourself, you’re on holiday after all!)
Where to stay in Pai
Pai is literally filled with wonderful places to stay, that’s what makes it such a great place to visit. Especially compared to busier cities like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. One important thing to note when booking your accommodation is that taxi services are limited. Well, not limited, but it’s basically a set fair of 100 baht and you book a taxi from the main street, so it’s just awkward. Most accommodations are within walking distance, so keep this in mind when booking. Ours was a 15-20 minute walk with bags which wasn’t exactly ideal. We stayed in a place called Pai Phu Fah Resort and we stayed here for two nights. This is right in the middle of the Pai countryside, away from the centre and you are housed in little wooden huts/bungalows. The views that surround you are amazing and you can see green rice paddies and one of the big Buddhas in the distance.
The Pai Walking Street Food Market
I have to include this because it’s probably the best street food market I have been to in Thailand! It’s cheap and the variety is crazy. Pai also loves its avocado, so it is truly an avocado lover's dream. There are dishes to suit everyone, from meat lovers (bbq ribs to die for), vegetarians (fried mushroom and sweet fritters- delicious!) and vegans. The only problem will be choosing what to eat; either way I recommend you eat the street food each night. We didn’t get sick and everything is visibly clean and well prepared; which is surprising as we got sick in a few places in the south of Thailand. This street food market is located in the centre of Pai, though the town is tiny anyway, so it’s hard to miss. You’ll walk past lots of food establishments then you’ll enter the food market- yum! Stalls start setting up at around 5:00 pm, so I recommend heading in at about 6:00 pm.
Explore Pai Canyon
Known as Thailand’s answer to the Grand Canyon (a very ambitious claim), Pai Canyon covers a large area that offers some brilliant views and fun hikes. If you are feeling very active you can scramble all the way down and spend hours climbing and getting lost in nature. It’s a bit of an adventurer’s playground too because some of the paths are quite skinny and sketchy, so make sure you wear good shoes if you are planning on exploring Pai Canyon properly. A favourite pastime is enjoying the sunset with a beer in hand, watching the sky change to an astonishing array of colours. You won’t be alone for sunset, but that just adds to the awesome atmosphere! Get there to Pai Canyon by riding your scooter out of town back towards Chiang Mai.
Walking Street Night Market
Every night the main street of Pai fills up with street food vendors and market stalls selling everything from your quintessential hippie clothing and jewelry to personalized postcards. Even if you’re not into shopping though, you still need to spend just about every night making the most of Pai’s Walking Street, especially if you’re hungry. The selection of street food is quite varied; sushi, Indian food, barbecued meats, fresh fruit smoothies, and deep-fried everything. You certainly won’t go hungry! Everyone ends up at the night market most nights so the people-watching is great. Just watch out for first-time scooter riders who have no concept of how to drive. Entertaining, but dangerous!
Pam Bok Waterfall
Pai has a number of awesome waterfalls to visit, which is perfect because the area can get pretty hot during the day! What better way to cool off than visiting the two best ones! One of our personal favourites is the Pam Bok Waterfall, located a short scooter ride from Pai. It’s a little more secluded than its more popular alternative (more on that below), so definitely don’t miss it. Pam Bok Waterfall is tucked away beneath some high cliffs, so it is often covered in shade for most of the day. As a result, the water is quite refreshing, but that means you could have the pool to yourself. There are also a couple of ledges you can climb to jump off. Be sure to check the water depth before taking the leap! Safety first kids. Situated on the road to the Pam Bok Waterfall, the famous Pai Land Split is definitely worth a stopover.
Land Crack
A small property hidden in the hills had always been a working farm until a strange natural phenomenon changed everything. Several years ago, the farmer’s land began to split and crack due to some strange soil erosion. His property became unusable as the land turned into a scene you would see after an earthquake. The thrifty farmer then decided to turn his property and land split into a bit of a tourist attraction where he now offers you nuts, fruit, sweet potato, fresh rosella juice, and alcohol – all by donation! Once you’ve filled up on food (he constantly brings you more to eat), you can walk up the hill to have a look at the Land Split. The family is very friendly and is just happy to have people stopping by. Definitely one of the most unique things to do in Pai.
Mo Paeng Waterfall
The other most popular falls to visit in Pai is the Mo Paeng Waterfall, and this is our personal favourite. At Mo Paeng Waterfalls there are great little pools with long, slippery rock faces running into them that you can slide down. The scenery is gorgeous and it makes for a fun place to spend a few hours. Our recommendation for what to do in Pai is to rent a scooter from town and spend exploring these epic little spots on your own.
Splash around at Waterpark Adventure
Okay, this was probably one of my absolute favourite things to do in Pai; mainly because we drove past it randomly and thought “what’s that?”. It’s not a waterpark in your traditional sense...rather it’s a massive swimming pool filled with massive inflatable courses to try and tackle and a big massive “bouncy” water slide to climb on top and slide down. We were intrigued, so we pulled over to find a price. We put our bags in some random lockers (that had no locks) and headed towards what looked like a bar. I can’t remember the exact price...but I’m pretty sure it was around 150 THB. It was amazingly fun and so cheap, they even had super clean showers and toilets to clean yourself afterwards. There is so little information about this place online….they don’t even rank for their own business name, and you should use Maps.me or Google Maps to bring you there.It did advertise “pool” parties, with shots, drinks, DJs, the whole shebang and I reckon they would be quite fun, but I think they are only for a certain season. I really hope this place stays open because if you have the chance to go, you will love it!
Tha Pai Hot Springs
For a relaxing afternoon when you visit Pai, head to the Tha Pai Hot Springs. Only 7km from town, a cold-water stream flows over boiling-hot rocks to create a soothing, heated pool surrounded by lush scenery. Tha Pai Hot Springs are the perfect way to kill a few hours in the winter months when temperatures in Pai can plummet. You’ll find lots of other backpackers hanging out and having a good time at the hot springs, so there’s a good chance you’ll make some friends there too. This is one place we didn’t visit due to the fact we were there in summer and the weather was already roasting. But if you are there in the cooler months, don’t miss these amazing hot springs! Sai Ngam Hot Springs are another amazing option. While Tha Pai Hot Springs are south of the town center, Sai Ngam Hot Springs are a 25 minute drive north. Both are easily accessible from Pai and make for an incredible, relaxing day.
Venture up to White Buddha
Wat Phra That Mae Yen, also known as the White Buddha, is one of the top things to see when you visit Pai. You can see it from most places in town, and the White Buddha high on the hill isn’t only a religious shrine, it also offers some of the best views over Pai! Once you cross the bridge heading out of town keep following the road until you are about 2km out of town, and you’ll see the path to the top. There are 353 steps to reach the White Buddha, and while it might be tiring, the vistas from the top are always worth it. Time your trip to be at the top for sunset and you’ll quickly fall in love with the entire valley changing colours right before your eyes. Make sure you take water with you, and even though the temperature can be hot keep in mind that you still need to show respect to Buddha by covering up. It’s difficult deciding what to see in Pai, but the Wat Phra That Mae Yen is a Pai must-see!
- Opening Hours: 6:00 am – 6:00 pm
- Entrance Fee: Free of charge
Tubing Down the Pai River
The Pai River hosts the best Pai activities – tubing! If you’ve never been tubing before then you’re in for a real treat. Basically all it requires is one big inflatable tube, your bathers, and a sense of adventure. You head upriver with a bunch of friends and push yourself out into the water. Then you kick back and let the current take you back to town. The entire experience will take about an hour. This is definitely one of the best things to do in Pai Thailand, especially on a hot day. Rent a tube from one of the tour companies in town for less than $10, including transport to and from the river.
Though there are so many great Pai attractions to visit, I can confidently say that some of my favorite memories from here were our time spent out on the moped. Compared to elsewhere in Thailand, Pai seems so much less crowded, so as soon as you head out of town the roads are virtually empty. Plus, the scenery is spectacular, with lush green fields and rice paddies almost everywhere. The roads are also in pretty good shape, at least by Asian standards, so the roads are nice and smooth and you aren’t as worried about suddenly hitting a massive pothole! There are a bunch of places in town that rent out mopeds, charging anywhere from 100 THB per day and upwards. You can usually get a better price if you’re willing to hire for multiple days; and we often find that your hotel/hostel offers the best rates. That being said, before you head out make sure that the bike is in good condition and that they give you helmets for everyone riding.
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